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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.